Monthly Archives: April 2012

Mystical and Mysterious Megaliths in Carnac, France

Black and white photography is oft-times better, especially when you wish to see the texture and depth of an object or scene and not simply be dazzled by the ‘prettiness’ of colour.

Legends have offered many explanations for the placement of thousands of Neolithic standing stones in rows or wavelike patterns at Carnac in Britanny, France. The chronicles of Julius Caesar mention that he met with a Druid chieftain within the complex of stones at Carnac and one legend claims that the unwelcome Roman legions were turned into the lines of stones.
 

Standing stones at Carnac in Brittany, France


 
The stark beauty of the unadorned stone is frequently better seen in black and white, so here is a continuation of the previous photo essay in colour. And this time the mood of the place itself is, in my mind, better interpreted by the black and white photos.
 

Standing stones as far as the eye can see at Carnac in Britanny, France. B&W


 
Faces are often seen in these wonderful stones and my own interpretation of the picture below is this. Of the 4 largest stones, from left to right, one might see a lion facing to the right, a cobra-faced man, and an elephant facing left with part of its trunk knocked off.
 

Craggy faces in stone at Carnac in Britanny, France


 

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The Silent Stones of Carnac

The mysterious megalithic standing stones at Carnac in Britanny, northern France, had been on our list of places to see for many years. So we were pleased to be able to take a side jaunt as we drove from the top of France to the bottom over a three day period. We arrived on the last day of winter, a mere one day before the official Spring re-opening for the tourists and the reinstatement of the guided tours.
 

Yellow blooms against mysterious gray megalithic stones at Carnac, Britanny, France


 
There are thousands upon thousands of these standing stones spread out over several miles. It is simply stunning to see this many ancient megaliths in one place!
 

Megalithic stones at Carnac in Britanny, France stretch as far as the eye can see


 
There were no admission costs to pay since we were out of season, but we also found ourselves locked out and unable to walk around the stones and we had to make do with viewing them across the ugly and flimsy wire fence that surrounded the entire area. I won’t lie — that was quite disappointing.
 

Fences keep visitors away from the Carnac stones unless accompanied by a guide


 
Over the years we have visited many stone circles or megaliths or dolmens and the only time we have been restricted from walking right up to the stones was at Stonehenge in England. I suppose that the reasoning behind the decision to enclose the Carnac stones within a fence is for the same reasons as the Stonehenge separation from the hoards of tourists — to minimize potential damage. But apparently it was a decision that has angered many of the local residents who resent the change in policy and the requirement to pay an ‘official guide’ to accompany them.
 

Sign at Carnac standing stones explains the requirement for an official guide


 
One of the interesting aspects of visiting ancient stone sites has always been the ability to reach out and touch the stones and ‘tune in’ to any residual energy that still dwells within. We were unable to do that in this place and I must admit, it left me with a curiously ‘detached’ feeling about a place that I had so looked forward to visiting prior to our arrival.
 

Ancient megalithic standing stones at Carnac in Britanny, France


 
Just as in the much smaller Avebury complex in England, the stones are within a village that has grown up around the ancient site. But it was surprising to see just how very, very close some of the stones were to the well-established houses.
 

White house nestled amongst the standing stones at Carnac in Britanny, France


 

Standing stones in Carnac run right up to the village houses


 
I can’t really comment on the quality of the guided tour since we were there out of season and didn’t pay the €9 fee, but the Carnac Standing Stones are an interesting stop in Britanny and certainly well worth a detour if you are in that part of France.

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Take An Orange Chair And Relax

Yes — I am running behind in the write-up of our 3 day drive from Normandy to the south of France — to the Midi-Pyrenees. So picture yourself sitting down in one of these orange chairs in the seaside village of Brehal in Normandy with the soft spring sun upon your face. Order a cup of coffee of your choice (and it’s France, so there are no strange flavoured syrups — just good strong coffee based on expresso!) and relax. I’ll be back on Sunday to post the first part of our travels from North to South.
 

Orange chairs at sidewalk cafe in Normandy seaside village


 

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Saying Goodbye To Northern France

We chose our time for departure beautifully. It was the last few days of winter and the following week would see the arrival of the tourist season in full bloom. As we walked through the sleepy streets of St. Martin de Brehal one last time, we enjoyed the almost silent aspect of walking along a crowd-free pavement.
 

Sleepy St. Martin de Brehal in Normandy, France on the last days of winter


 
I won’t downplay the emotions involved — it was wrenching to leave northern France. We fell in love with Normandy and made so many lovely friends there over the last year. But it was time to drive south so that Mark could start his new job in the Midi-Pyrenees.
 

Walking the ramp down to the sea in Brehal, Normandy, France


 

Mark left a chunk of his heart by the seaside in Normandy


 
One of the hardest things for Mark to leave behind was the seaside. He felt so alive there. So on that last day, we packed the car, drove to the beach at Brehal, and we had one last look at the seacoast there.
 

Deserted wintery beach at Brehal, Normandy, France before the influx of spring tourists


 
The beach was deserted — completely devoid of other people. But next week is the beginning of April and the start of the Easter holiday period. From that point on, we would have been looking at a packed beach full of people and pets. So this traquil view was one more special moment before we moved on.

One quick stop at the local supermarket for a few bottles of sparkling pear cider (yum!) and a full tank of diesel, then away we went for three days of driving from the very top to the very bottom of France — almost all the way to Spain. We certainly don’t take the ‘middle path’ and move a mere few hours (or countries!) away, do we!

Over the next few days I will be uploading photos from that wonderful trip. So come back soon for more beautiful views of a beautiful country.

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